Welcome to Ask Doctor Zac, a weekly column from news.com.au. This week, Dr Zac Turner explores whether face rollers are effective or not.
QUESTION: Hi Dr Zac, my mum says you are the king of dispelling TikTok influencer trends. I’m 17 years old and I get a lot of my advice from TikTok. I want to stay young and pretty forever haha. Do gua sha and face rolling tools actually work, or are they just a fad? – Kayla, 17, Torquay, Victoria
ANSWER: As a doctor, I hear this question a lot – especially from patients struggling with puffiness around their eyes or a swollen face in the morning.
I’ll admit, even I’ve been on the hunt for ways to banish those stubborn under-eye bags. Whether it’s from a late night out or one glass of wine too many, waking up with red and puffy eyes isn’t exactly the look most of us are going for. But can gua sha and face rollers really help? Let’s dig into what actually works.
Before we get into the claims, let’s break down what these tools actually are.
Gua sha comes from traditional Chinese medicine, using a smooth-edged tool – usually jade or rose quartz – to scrape the skin lightly. This is believed to increase circulation and ease tension.
The modern version focuses on the face, aiming to give the skin a refreshed, radiant look. Meanwhile, face rollers, often made of similar materials, glide over the skin to help with puffiness and lymphatic drainage.
The claims: Truth or just clever marketing influences have embraced?
The promises that gua sha and face rollers can contour your face, smooth out fine lines and promote lymphatic drainage sound fantastic.
But is there solid evidence behind these claims, or are we being sold a beauty dream?
Face contouring and puffiness reduction
One of the most common reasons I recommend gua sha is for reducing puffiness – especially that under-eye swelling many people wake up with. And yes, this includes mornings after a late-night celebration. A cool gua sha tool can work wonders here, with the cold stone helping to tighten the skin, followed by a warm one to maintain the effect as the stone warms up. This process can help reduce swelling, as the massage action encourages lymphatic drainage. There’s even a study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology that supports gua sha’s ability to improve microcirculation and ease fluid retention, at least temporarily.
That said, if you’re chasing those Hollywood-level cheekbones, a quick session with a gua sha won’t quite cut it – unless, of course, you roll and snap that selfie right afterwards while the effect is fresh.
The reality is, any sculpting effect is temporary and relies on the reduction of fluid build-up. For long-term contouring, you’d need something more substantial than just a jade tool.
Wrinkle reduction: A bit of a stretch
While it’s clear that gua sha can make the skin look refreshed, can it really banish wrinkles? This is where things get a bit murky.
A review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that while facial massage techniques like gua sha can give a temporary boost to skin elasticity, they’re no match for the likes of retinoids or laser treatments when it comes to tackling deeper wrinkles. So, you might get a short-lived glow and slightly firmer skin from the increased circulation, but don’t ditch your anti-ageing serums just yet.
Lymphatic drainage: This is the real deal
Where gua sha truly shines is in stimulating lymphatic drainage.
Think of the lymphatic system as the body’s waste disposal service – when it’s sluggish, you might notice fluid build-up – cue the puffy face. By gently guiding the tool across the skin, you can help move this fluid towards lymph nodes, reducing that puffiness.
Research published in the Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine highlights gua sha’s role in boosting lymphatic circulation. But, like with contouring, the benefits of drainage don’t last forever, often disappearing within a few hours. Regular use is key if you want to keep up that refreshed look.
Beyond the research, I’ve seen first-hand how these tools can help with specific concerns. Recently, I had some patients dealing with blepharitis – a condition that causes swollen eyelids. In these cases, I suggested using a cool gua sha that had been chilled in the fridge and then gently rolling it over the affected areas. Note, I also just suggested a cool pack, but the gua sha for a 15 and 18-year-old seemed more fun. The cool sensation, combined with the gentle pressure, helped to reduce the swelling. But a crucial tip here: always clean your gua sha after each use, especially if there’s a potential infection. It’s a simple step that can prevent bacteria from lingering on the tool and causing further issues.
Speaking from experience, if you’re trying to avoid those dreaded morning-after eyes, it’s worth keeping an eye on your hydration habits too.
As tempting as a glass of red with dinner might be, alcohol before bed can make those puffy eyes even worse. Better to enjoy your drink earlier in the day and stick to water after 5pm. While my suggestion of day-drinking can be taken with a grain of salt, your skin – and your morning reflection – will thank you.
Maximum benefits (without wasting your time)
Here’s the thing: if you want to get the best results from gua sha or a face roller, consistency and the right technique are non-negotiable. A quick 20-second roll won’t cut it.
To see any real benefits, you’ll need to spend at least 5–10 minutes per session. Studies from the Journal of Dermatological Science suggest that sustained facial massage is necessary to improve circulation and skin elasticity. Plus, these repetitive motions can activate your parasympathetic nervous system, which helps to relax you and ease stress – something we could all use a bit more of these days.
With this in mind, I think doing it in bed while reading or similar is where I’ve most commonly used one, or listening to a meditation track.
If you enjoy the soothing ritual of using face rollers or gua sha for a quick pick-me-up, they can be a nice addition to your routine. They help with temporary puffiness but won’t give you lasting results like smoother eyes or more defined cheekbones. Think of them as a quick fix rather than a permanent solution. And remember, hygiene is key – always clean your tools properly after each use, especially if you’re using them near your eyes or have sensitive skin. A little care now can prevent bigger issues later on.
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