The name Chikankari comes from the Urdu word Chikanwhich means embroidery. The technique involves the use of fine threads, often white or off-white, to create intricate floral or geometric patterns on fabric, typically cotton or silk. The stitches used in Chikankari include a variety of techniques like investigate (a knot stitch), zari (gold or silver thread work), tara (a star-shaped stitch), and murri (a raised, rounded stitch), among others. This detailed, labour-intensive work requires a high level of craftsmanship and patience.
Over time, Chikankari became a symbol of luxury, particularly in the region of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, which is considered the heart of the embroidery. The city’s skilled artisans carried forward this legacy, transforming the craft into a major cultural and commercial product. During the British colonial period, Chikankari suffered a decline as the demand for handcrafted goods waned in favor of industrially produced textiles. However, after India gained independence, there was a resurgence of interest in traditional crafts, and Chikankari experienced a revival. It was promoted as a symbol of Indian heritage and craftsmanship, helping to boost both the local economy and national pride.
The embroidery has been adapted over time, and contemporary designs now appear in various fashion forms, including saris, kurtas, dupattasand home décor. Today, Chikankari is recognised as a form of craftsmanship that is both an art and a livelihood for many, especially in Uttar Pradesh, where it continues to be an important source of employment. Its legacy as a craft of elegance and intricate artistry remains intact, cherished by collectors and fashion enthusiasts worldwide
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