Vintage jewelry is having a moment. Just look at the most recent Oscars red carpet, where dozens of celebs topped off their gowns with old gems, like Elle Fanning in a spotlight-stealing diamond choker from 1903, or the dozens of dudes sporting antique brooches affixed to their tuxedo jackets.
“There’s a demand for vintage and heritage jewelry,” says Candy Udell, president of London Jewelers.
Heirloom jewels have always had a certain lustre across the ages, but now they’re particularly attractive. The rise in the price of gold, as well as increased tariffs around the globe, have made buying — and manufacturing — new pieces more expensive. Pre-loved gems are not only more affordable but also more sustainable and better for the environment.
London Jewelers has embraced the trend. While estate and vintage jewelry has been a part of the business for a while, the company is now making a concerted effort to source and sell these secondhand treasures.
“London Jewelers is a heritage brand,” Udell says. “And, you know, we’re all about heritage because it’s our 100th anniversary. Going all in on vintage just makes sense. It’s something that spans the generations of what we represent.”
The London Jewelers Vintage Collection is sold at the brand’s Long Island boutiques in Glen Cove, Manhasset, Southampton and East Hampton. Offers range from the Victorian and Art Deco eras to the 1980s and ’90s.
Udell hand-selects every piece herself. From her decades in the business, she has a vast network of dealers, collectors and like-minded enthusiasts. “We buy pieces from all over the world,” she notes.
The retailer of course offers a curated collection of vintage watches. But Udell is also always on the hunt for David Webb’s bold baubles (the storied jeweler’s fans included Jackie O, Liz Taylor and Grace Kelly) and Marina B’s chunky gold pieces.
Her favorite find: a striking turquoise David Webb pin, adorned with pink rubellite and sparkling diamonds.
“It’s pinks and blues, and it’s summery and rich, and you know, it’s just so unique,” she gushes.“These are the kinds of pieces that we look for.”
Indeed, the discoveries make for a special kind of treasure. “They’re not a fortune, but they’re wearable, they’re fun and they bring attention,” Udell says. “That’s what jewelry should do: show your individuality. And I think with vintage, you’re more able to do that.”
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