Balenciaga names Martine Rose as creative director amid Kering restructuring

British designer Martine Rose has been appointed creative director of Balenciaga replacing Pierpaolo Piccioli after just 16 months in the position as parent company Kering looks to bring fresh creative direction to its luxury fashion business.

Kering announced Rose’s appointment on Friday marking the third major creative leadership change across its fashion brands within a month. The reshuffle comes as the French luxury group attempts to recover from a challenging three-year slowdown that has particularly affected its flagship brand, Gucci.

Rose, 45, established her own menswear label in London in 2007 and previously spent three years working at Balenciaga under former creative director Demna who now heads Gucci.

Expressing her enthusiasm over the new role Rose described her appointment as a privilege praising Balenciaga’s rich heritage and bold creative identity.

Kering Chief Executive Luca de Meo welcomed the appointment saying Rose’s understanding of contemporary culture and strong connection with younger generations would bring a fresh perspective to the fashion house.

During his decade-long tenure at Balenciaga Demna developed a distinctive dark and unconventional aesthetic turning the Spanish luxury label into a major force in contemporary streetwear. His designs including oversized distressed sneakers attracted widespread attention and contributed to the brand’s commercial success.

Piccioli, 59, who previously served as creative director at Valentino, sought to introduce a different direction through colourful haute couture and ready-to-wear collections. However, his work received mixed reactions from fashion critics. During his relatively short tenure, he presented three ready-to-wear collections and one haute couture collection.

Born in Croydon, south London, Rose draws inspiration from 1990s rave culture and street fashion. Her designs combine luxury fashion with everyday streetwear, an approach that aligns with Kering’s efforts to appeal to younger consumers. Her label has also collaborated with major brands, including Nike and Supreme.

Following the announcement, Piccioli shared a farewell message on Instagram, thanking his teams and reflecting on the transition as another chapter in his professional journey.

Meanwhile, Kering is facing further leadership changes across its fashion portfolio. Saint Laurent, the group’s second-largest brand, is yet to announce a replacement for Anthony Vaccarello, who stepped down in October after leading the label for 10 years.

Alexander McQueen is also without a creative director following the departure of Sean McGirr, adding to the wider restructuring underway across Kering’s luxury fashion brands.

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