Zhang Rongming (R), founder of Chinese lingerie brand Aimer, and actress Gong Li. Photo from Aimer’s Facebook |
Zhang, 64, was originally trained in metallurgy and chemistry, according to the South China Morning Post. In the late 1980s, he taught at the Shougang Institute of Technology in Beijing, where he developed high-performance coated blades and earned his first significant income.
His entrepreneurial instincts began much earlier. As a child, Zhang reportedly caught eels in rice fields at night and sold them at local markets the next morning, an early glimpse of the business acumen that would later shape his career.
A turning point came in 1991 during a research project, when Zhang encountered a shape-memory alloy. He realized the material could be used in bra underwires, an area that was still underdeveloped in China at the time. Most domestic bras offered limited support, while more advanced designs were largely confined to markets like Japan.
Sensing an opportunity, Zhang began experimenting despite having “no concept of bras” at the time and admitting he had “never paid attention to what type of lingerie” his wife wore. After numerous trials, he successfully developed an elastic memory alloy underwire. However, he initially struggled to secure manufacturing partners, pitching the product to multiple factories but facing repeated setbacks.
His breakthrough came in 1992, when a struggling fashion factory agreed to collaborate. Zhang raised 800,000 yuan from friends and invested heavily in quality materials, including imported lace from Japan. His vision was to merge advanced technology with refined design, creating lingerie that was both comfortable and elegant.
On March 8, 1993, celebrated as International Women’s Day, he officially launched his brand Aimer, named after the French word for “love.” His first bra sold for 49 yuan, a relatively steep price at the time, when average monthly living expenses for urban residents were just 195 yuan.
Despite the premium positioning, the brand quickly gained traction. By addressing a gap in the domestic market and appealing to women seeking higher-quality products, Aimer soon became a leading name in Beijing. Within a few years, annual sales reached 1 billion yuan.
Zhang continued to expand. In 2000, the company introduced men’s and children’s lines. In 2015, it launched a secondary brand named Imi’s, targeting younger consumers.
“With Imi’s, we sell not only lingerie but also a youthful spirit,” Zhang said at the time, as quoted by China Daily.
The company reached another milestone in 2021 when it went public on the Shanghai Stock Exchange, becoming China’s first publicly listed lingerie company. Today, it operates more than 1,600 stores and holds over 400 patents.
Competition from global brands posed challenges, particularly after Victoria’s Secret entered the Chinese market in 2017. However, the American retailer struggled to resonate with local consumers and eventually closed stores after sustained losses.
Zhang viewed this outcome as validation of his strategy. He has long argued that Chinese consumers prioritize values shaped by cultural traditions, including comfort, practicality, and subtlety, over overt sensuality. Reflecting this philosophy, Aimer has incorporated elements of Chinese heritage into its designs, including collections inspired by the colors and patterns of Dunhuang art.
With China’s lingerie market reaching 250 billion yuan in 2024, demand for comfort-focused products continues to grow. Aimer has responded by investing in wireless and sports bras while also expanding into international markets.
Last year, the Hurun Rich List estimated Zhang’s net worth at 5.3 billion yuan, cementing his status as an inspirational figure on Chinese social media. Many admire his unconventional journey from academia to fashion.
“A man who can focus on women’s fashion and diligently develop the technology behind it is truly remarkable,” one commenter noted.
“Aimer truly cares about women,” another wrote. “While products may be replaced by new tech and prices may always drop, it is a brand’s identity that guarantees its lasting legacy.”
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